Shoemaking



Nov. 10, 1931. LESlNSKl 1,831,672

SHOEMAKING Filed Dec. 27, 1929 fie/WK .ZES/NJK/ ATTORNEY Patented Nov. 10, 1931 rm]: nnsmskr, or BROOKLXN, NEW YORK SHOEMAKIKG I Application filed December 27, \Bsrial"No.416,887.

This invention relates to the art of making shoes and has for its broad object to provide an improved method of assembling the heel and sole of a shoe.

r 0 tion is to provide an improved method of attaching the sole and heel of a shoe which greatly simplifies the labor and reduces the timenecessary to properly assemble the heel and sole in their proper relationship.

Other objects'and advantages of the invention will be. hereinafter I specifically pointed out, or will become apparent, as the specification proceeds.

i5 With the above indicated objects in view,

the invention resides in certain novel constructions and combinations and arrangement of parts, clearly described in the following specification and fully illustrated in the waccompanying drawings, which latter show embodiments of the invention as at present preferred.

In said drawings v Figure 1 is a perspective View illustrating a heel, a topesole and an outer sole in as sembled position preparatory to attaching the rearorheel end of the outer sole to the breast of the heel.

Figure 2 is a side elevation of a heel and soleassenibly showing the manner of placing the outer sole in intimate contactwith the heelrea-dy for marking the position in which to place 'the'cutting tool. The broken lines vindicate-the position of the cutting blockand a; tool when trimming the rearend of the heel.

Figure 3 isan elevation illustrating the appearance ofthe finished heel after the outer sole has heen glued in place andv the rubber or leather heel fastened in place.

during thedesired outline in the outer-sole to matchthe outline otthe ed 'e of the breast of the heel. V

Figure 5 is a. longitudinal section on the 12.5 1 line 5+5ofvFigure .4.

cup preparatory to applying the method-step E0 and devices of thepresent invention; the shoe The principal object of the present invenas at 14 to match exactly the side edge's'of v Figured is a plan View of a cutter for pro- "in ud ng q c ap 7 t0whi li-is sewredfl l 8, eel eing u mm rily mil-dea Wood while the solertap is preferably of .le -t ie Th o eap 7 is. splines; at =9 an e -p ring'edse s r-m d is; sluedxtok th 3 t 5 lower edge surface'of the breast 19f tlleiheel.

p ily t er a be n partially cured to the top surface of thesoleetap 71a relatively thinner outerrsole lfi. v\Soiianthe, construction has been in aceondfillqe withvthe 00 present practice, in which the rear; portion 111 has been made larger than necessary: teegver the breast ofthe heel in orrleru to,allow;for

trimming the outer sole to the contour ofthe breast. a a

Figure3 nd a s h es lts, desirdt obtain, in which the extreme tfermina-lportion of the enlargedend 11 has *beentn rned overthe upper edge attire-breast of the heel ndnailed in placatheienlargement llfhav- "'1 ingbee Pr vio sly t imme to th reontou 0f the edges f the b east and theniglnedvi-n place.

Under present .o'methods .IQFfiHiShQdijQkLllQf course, is only had, aand:a. fini shedij0b asnecess ary,.=when the terminalp 0115101111215 skived to a tapering thinness as shown 'inthe figures and'Whenthe-sides 1310f the flap aretriinmed the heel'breast,and,- tinally,'when the 'pertion 0 11 is cut-to an'outline exactly: that-required be tore'skiving the -portion12.

The-present'method of'attaining the above result is both awkward andtir nsco'nsumingto say the least. Trimming the enlargedportion l1 ofothe rear end 'otjthe outer sole cannot be done While the fla "11 formed hythe'iree 'en'd'of the outer? so e isagainstthebreast or the heel -=for*iear of 'marring the-heel. "In 90 order to trim the" outer sole -to conformity With-the outline of the edgesof the-"breast the flap inust first be heldagainst the breast of the heel as in igure 2 and a pencil used v to outlinethe cut to he -n ade',i t-hen there :lIlllSlB'bGPGf-IEOI'IDGd a bending back ofthe flap and a trimming of the outline-13-with a sharp knife. :This procedure :is slow and-tedious and furthermore does not alwaysproduee the sharp outline-desiredv nor does it always firmly to the surface of the heelbreast and I will'be found to conform exactly to the conmatch the edges of the breast exactly when the flap is finally glued to the heel breast.

The procedure just outlined has been simplified and the time to perform the process of shaping the flap reduced considerably by pro-- viding cutters or dies 15 adapted to produce the desired outline conveniently and quickly. The cutters-15 are formed preferably of tempered steel and are equipped with a sharp edge 16 ground fine enough to readily pierce the leather when suitable pressure is applied as by a blow of a hammer. The cutters are shaped substantially as indicated in Fig. 4 and the cutting edge is so formed as to conform exactly to the outline which must be produced in the flap 11 in order to have the fiap match the edges of thebreast of the heel. F or each size of heel naturally enough 21- separate cutter must be provided having a contour of cutting edgeadapted to the heel which is to be used. i The cutters 15 are manner: After the parts had been primarilyv secured together as shown in Fig. l preparaused in the following tory to trimming to fit the contour of the edges ofthe breast, the flap is arranged as shown in Fig. 2 and a scriber or pencil is used to mark the upper extremity of the de- -sired cut, the wooden or leather heel having been first held in position; the final close;

pressed location of the extremity of the flap I and the corners of the heel being indicated, a wood or brass block or anvil '18 is then arranged in place on the surface of outer sole and the flap ll'is laid flat against the top surface of the block as indicated diagrammatically in dot and dash lines in Fig. 2.

Then the cutting tool is laid down, the cutting edge lowermost,on the surface of the flap 11 as shown in Fig. 2 and carefully placed so that predetermined: portions of said tool and marks thereon have a predetermined relation to the marks made by the pencil. A sharp blow is then struck on the tool as, by means a of a hammer,driving the cutting edges of the tool into the leather thus severing the leather with an outline conforming to the shape of the tool. The block 18 and the tool 15 are now removed and the terminal portion 12 is skived to a knife edge. The flap 11 is now glued tour of the edges of the breast. The rubber :or leather. tap 17 having been previously removedthe terminal portion 12 is bent over and tacked in place after which the tap 17 is It: will be clear provides a ready and rapid method of producing the desired outline in the flap 11 and avoids the tedious and laborious operation of first outlining the desired cut by means of a pencil and then cutting the outline by means of a knife. The only trimming or cutting involving the use of a knife is the skiving of the terminal portion 12 and possibly a slight amount of trimming which may be required at the narrowest portion of the out er sole which, when the shoe is being worn, underlies the instep of the foot. It will therefore be seen that no trimming involving the use of a knife is necessary along the edges of the outer sole which conform to the edges of the wooden heel with the result that there is nodanger of marring the heel. It will be clearly seen that trimming by means of a knife along the narrowest portion of the insolemay be accomplished'without serious pended claims, interpreted as broadly as is 7 consistent with the prior art.

What is claimed as new, is:

1. In the art of manufacturing shoes in which a heel structure and a sole structure have been preparatorily and partially secured together in readiness for finishing, the method of finishing the heel structure which involves placing a free flap-of the sole structure in a second position in contact with the breast of the heel, said second position being a close approximation of the position the flap will occupy in relation to said heel breast when the heel structure is completed, then marking an indicium on said flap to constitute an index to a substantially U-shaped outline with the sides of the U conforming substantially exactly to the side edges of said heel breast, transferring said flap from said second position to a cutting position, then cutting said U-shaped outline from said flap substantially simultaneously in all parts of said outline, .and finally fastening the flap to the breast of the heel.

2. In the art of manufacturing shoes in whicha heel, and a sole structure have been preparatorily and partially secured together in readiness for finishing, the method of finishing a shoe which involves placing the free flap of the sole structure in a scribing position in contact with the breast of the heel, scribing said flap to define an outline conforming. substantially to the side edges of said heel breast, locating temporarily a sub- 7 stantially fiat support atop said sole struo ture, transferring said flap to overlie said support and to lie flatwiselythereon, applying over said flap a cutting die having a cutting edge conforming to said outline, arranging said die so that its said edge matches said outline, operating said die to drive the cutting edge thereof through said flap substantially perpendicularly therethrough thereby to cut a complete outline at one operation pursuant to such scribing, and fastening the flap to the breast of the heel.

3. In the'art of manufacturing shoes, the method of assembling a heel and a sole structure, which involves partially securing said sole structure to the heel structure, providing a sole flap and placing in contact with the breast of said heel structure, indicating a reference point on said flap, removing said flap from contact with said heel portion, placing said outer sole in a position for cutting a predetermined outline, providing die and:

anvil elements the former of which has a cutting edge conforming to said outline, arranging said elements to locate said flap therebetween, operating said elements to out said outline while guided by said point, and then securing said flap to the breast of the heel. I

In testimony whereof I hereby aflix my signature.

FRANK LESINSKI. 

